
Delhi is usually described as two cities — Old and New — but that undersells it. This is a place that's been the capital of one empire or another for something like a thousand years, and you can feel each version of it if you know where to look: a Mughal tomb tucked behind an apartment block, a British-era boulevard leading straight into a medieval fort.
I spent one whole day just wandering between monuments with no particular plan, and never ran out of new ones. The scale of Rashtrapati Bhavan's forecourt still gets me — that much open sandstone in the middle of a city this dense feels almost impossible.


