Mumbai: The Maximum City

Nobody warns you that Mumbai doesn't really have an off switch. I landed at midnight expecting a quiet ride into the city and got stuck in traffic instead, next to a street food stall doing brisker business than most restaurants I've been to at lunch.

The Sea Link is where I ended up most evenings, just to watch the light change over the water while the city kept moving behind me. Everyone told me to expect chaos and what I actually found was closer to choreography — a city that's figured out how to run at full speed without falling over.